Theatre

We went to the theatre tonight to see an "adult" and "humorous" take on fairy tales. Nowhere did it mention that it would be through the medium of dance.

Towards the end of the excruciating first half, the old chap behind me slowly collapsed and someone said they needed an ambulance. I dashed to alert the staff and we waited for the ambulance with the show continuing on stage. (Not) soon enough, the interval arrived and someone presented themselves as a GP, so we left them to it and all waited in the lobby.

ML and I realised this was the perfect opportunity to escape the second half (and who can blame us, was one casualty already), so we cut our losses and bravely sneaked away to the brewery next door. On our way we saw the ambulance arrive, but I did have to wonder whether the old fellow was making some sort of critical statement...?

Travelling North

Very bizarre – we are sat in the campervan in a car park by the ferry terminal in the centre of Wellington.  Back doors up against a main road into the city centre.   Out the front there is just about views over the harbour passed a row of campers and between the buildings.  Very different from the rural peace and quiet of our first two nights in Hanmer Springs.  Though we have been building up the noise levels over the last few days.  The campsite in Blenheim where we spent the last two nights nestled under the flyover of the main road from Picton to Christchurch and had a few truck rattling over in the evening.

We have now left the South Island behind and starting our journey north towards Auckland.  Maybe we will get some wild camping in on the way…no use having a self-contained camper and not use all the facilities.  We are yet to try out having a shower ensuite!

Non-Diving Photos

A couple of posts have (finally) had images added, so now you can see the beautiful but terrifying Blue Mountains and the glorious Doubtful Sound, in full colour.

Diving Photos

See more pictures from our trip diving on the Great Barrier Reef and from Chuuk and the Philippines.

Five Nights in Queenstown

We hadn't planned to stay in Queenstown for so long, but it worked out that way.

Having arrived in Christchurch on Thursday afternoon, we picked up our slightly down-market Nissan Bluebird and set off south. We got to Omarama (after a stop at a supermarket for groceries) around 8pm, where we were booked in at a motel for the night. It was just getting dark as we arrived, so we didn't appreciate the fantastic views from the window till we opened the curtains the next day to bright blue skies and the hills in the distance.

After breakfast, we started out on the road to Queenstown after stopping to photograph Omarama's monument to the merino sheep. We got as far as Cromwell around lunchtime so stopped for a break, a visit to the i-site office and lunch at the Tin Goose Café.

Then the drive through wine country (Bannockburn and Gibbson Valley) and passed old gold mining excavations to Queenstown, stopping at the info centre to get accommodation sorted out.

Great apartment at The Whistler. No views of the lake from here but we could look out across to the Skyline gondola ride. A lazy evening with a run to the supermarket, then a few beers and roast chicken dinner.

We had planned to go on a wine tour on Saturday - only it was fully booked - so we had a lazy morning and then set off with a packed lunch for a walk around Lake Hayes.

Sunday we got on the Appellation Wine Tour. Pick up from the apartments at 9.30am, and we were whisked off to Gibbson Valley to the first of four wineries. The trip also including a fantastic lunch (where we "bumped" into Jeffrey Archer), a not so good trip to a wine cinema and a walk round old Cromwell. Came back a little more light headed at 5pm and had more chicken and prepared for an early start the next day.

Taxi pick up at 6:45am then a transfer to a bus in town for a trip to Doubtful Sound. A bit too early to enjoy the chirpy commentary from the Maori bus driver on the way to Manapouri (which included a transfer to a second minibus). A trip across the Lake to West Am. Then a bus on the highest pass in New Zealand for tour buses and a very steep descent into Doubtful Sound where we picked up the boat for a 3 hour cruise. The weather was so calm we were able to go right out into the Tasmin Sea (something they can only do about once a month) and the sky so clear (it rains two days out of three), the photos came out brilliantly. On the bus back to West Am, we also got a trip inside the hydro-electric power station – a 2km drive to the mountain side.

Doubtful Sound - view up Crooked Arm

Then the lake ferry and the bus back to Queenstown made for a long day, and we didn't much feel like getting up early to move on the next day, so we arranged another night at The Whistler and had an easy morning and then a walk up Queenstown Hill with views back down into town and across the lake. It was a stunning if not a very steep climb. We didn't make the summit as the clouds were rolling in and it was getting cold, so we headed back into town and found a great Indian restaurant for dinner. It was BYO so we enjoyed the bottle of Olssens 2010 Summer Dreaming Rose, purchased at the cellar door. An enjoyable last night in town!

New Zealand, brrrrr-illiant

After two months in a t-shirt and shorts, I spent today in long trousers, t-shirt, two jumpers, two pairs of long-johns, a gillet and an anorak. And an extra hat (so that's two) too.

Great day in Fiordland - pic's to follow.

Dive centre review: Action Divers

Action Divers on Mindoro Island, Philippines, are a friendly, safe and professional beachside op I would definitely recommend and use again.

Low point: of about 15 dives I did with them, one was a bit crap. It was a weekend (so several "weekend" divers) and there was only one guide available, so I spent the entire dive fuming at photographers (holding on to coral or kicking coral with their fins whilst trying to take photo) and other bad divers. Or perhaps I was just in a grump.

High points: Great staff and guides; location, location, location (most dives within a few minutes boat ride and have never before seen such abundance and variety of life); pygmy seahorses (tiny pink knobbly bits on knobbly pink fan coral); being the sole diver on a 27m guided dive - shown an octopus (invisible amongst the rocks) and a Leaf Scorpionfish (white thing on white coral - even being shown it did not see it until I realised what I was looking at and so what to look for).

Dive centre reviews

Action Divers - Philippines
Thorfinn - Chuuk
Spirit of Freedom - Australia
PURG (Port Macquarie Underwater Research Group) - Australia
FishRock Dive Centre - Australia

WTF?!

At first I thought these were feet and that they were pretty tasteless. Then I realised what they actually are...

I love Australia

We are off to New Zealand tomorrow, but so far I have liked Australia as much as I feared I would: great weather - including proper storms (sheet and fork lightening several times a minute for an hour); great diving; lovely people; avocado with everything [ML: beetroot]; great wines; space; very little litter (rubbish bins everywhere with recycling bins too); organised sport and fitness outdoors; outdoor lifestyle; etc.

If I can just become a man of independent means, I would be very tempted to move here.

Sunday in Sydney

Arrived in Sydney today from the Blue Mountains. Checked into a hotel near the city and dropped the car off at the airport. Then went to Oz Tek - seeing as we will be missing LIDS this year. Met up with some of the people we've been diving with on the trip so far at the exhibition as well.

Then went out for a Thai...no change there then!

Blue Mountain Adventures

We went on a walk in the Blue Mountains National Park today. After a delicious breakfast of herbed mushrooms and poached eggs at the Conservation Hut, we headed out to follow the National Pass walk.

It started with the descent to Empress Falls - it was an awfully long way down - and I was a bit worried when we watched someone slide off the edge of the path into a pool!

Then headed around the side of the canyon along the National Pass with breathtaking views across Jamison Valley. Nick was a "little" worried about the drop to the bottom.

We made our way around to Wentworth Falls. There we had to ascend the steep steps back to the top of the cliff. Though we had to stop and shelter from the rain when a storm came over, obliterating the view with clouds for 15 mins.

At the top we took the Undercliff walk as far as Princes Rock Lookout. Then ended the walk taking the Short Track back to the Conservation Hut and a cup of tea.

[NK: Breathtakingly terrifying pictures to follow, images that will strike terror into the heart of all but Himalayan Mountain Goats - not recommended for acrophobics.]

Wine List

AUSTRALIA

We tried quite a few wines at several cellar doors during two days in Hunter Valley, but listed below are the ones we thought good enough to buy a bottle of and have drunk (so far):

Tyrrell's Wines – Old Winery Brut NV
Windsor's Edge Estate - Solera 9yr Port
Tyrrell's Wines – Special Aged Tawny (South Australia)
Pepper Tree – Limited Release Sauvignon Blanc 2010 (Orange)
Vinden Estate – Alicante Bouschet 2008 (Hunter)
Constable Estate – Mosato 2010 – Sparkling (Hunter)
Vinden Estate – Sparkling Alicante Bouschet 2009 (Hunter)

To buy a t-shirt or not to buy a t-shirt?

Got myself stuck with a bit of a problem today - should I buy a dive shop t-shirt or not?

I've found myself with a bit of a collection since the start of the trip. My Aussie t-shirt which has seen me through many a dive trip is starting to look a bit worn out and on SS Thorfinn, I noticed they had purple t-shirts with a choice of wrecks on the back which included my particular favourite - the Fujikawa maru. So I bought myself one.

Then after our second visit to Action Divers in the Philippines and we said our goodbyes again, we were both give t-shirts by the owner. (A bit of a marketing exercise I suspect.) So suddenly, I have a t-shirt from both places we'd dived.

Then we were diving on the Great Barrier Reef, on the Spirit of Freedom...should I buy one of their expensive t-shirts? They did have a very nice long sleeve on with a great shade of grey - so the answer was yes!

So today I had the dilemma of whether to buy a Fish Rock Dive Centre one or not? They were particularly good, as it has a map of the Fish Rock Cave, which we went out to dive today and they did come in a wide range of colours and styles. But the price tag was 20 quid...so the answer was no, and my collection has come to a standstill.

Still not sure if PURG - the Port Macquire Underwater Research Group - who we dived with on Sunday would have had anything like that for me anyway.  Though we did come away with a cerficate to say we took part in "Clean Up Australia Day".

Eight Days in Chuuk - Day Six

Today was going to be a two tank dive from the tender in the morning, so after breakfast, we packed a dry bag with sunscreen and hats and headed off a little further than usual for the first dive…

Dive 17 – Fumitsuki Destroyer – 1,913 ton Mutsuki Class destroyer. This is one of only a few Japanese Naval ships in the lagoon and quite small so no wreck penetration, but it was so covered in life it was a really enjoyable dive, making our way along the decks. I spotted a shark in the blue. Artifacts on the deck included pages from a book. Ended up with longer deco on the Suunto Mosquito than the others so we were last out of the water.

What a lovely pair!

Between dives we headed to Udot Island where the tender tied up for about ½ hour. This is Tomo’s home island and we met his brother when we took a short walk to a rather grand house, which had been built by some politician by the jetty. Tomo’s brother is caretaker. Tomo climbed a tree and cut down coconuts for us to drink the milk – a very refreshing between dive beverage. And we took lots of pictures of the children who came down to the boat to meet us all. Then we headed back out to the lagoon for…

Dive 18 – Shinkoku Maru – 10,020 ton 500 ft long naval tanker. This had great marine life on it. It’s out in a more exposed area of the lagoon where there was more current so the decks are covered with coral and schools of fish were hanging out around the ship. Tomo took us inside to see the infirmary in the bridge area, but there were many other holes to poke a nose into and look around.

Again a long ride in the tender back to Thorfinn for late lunch. The Chances where leaving the next day so had finished diving for the day, so Nick and I suggested, we would be happy to just do one more for the day and made it a bit later start in the afternoon. So had time to relax before setting out at 3:30pm for the third dive of the day…

Dive 19 – Fujikawa Maru – the fantastic cargo ship which Nick missed diving earlier in the week. Did the same route through the wreck – still looked like a maze but Tomo guided us fantastically around the engine room and tool shop – spotted different thing in there this time. The storeroom was full of electric fans, and all the electric cabling for the lights around the ship was hung about. Another great dive. (Done the dive twice so brought the T-shirt!)



Changed for dinner and then chatting with Colin and Caitlin in the evening and got quite late before going to bed (10pm!)

Eight Days in Chuuk - Day Five

Weather was a bit wet and windy again today and I also felt a little weary in the morning as we got up and had bacon and omelette for breakfast. Soon off for first dive at 8am…

Chances on the line

Dive 13 – Nippo Maru – 3,764 Cargo ship and Naval water carrier. Split into two groups for this deeper dive. Buster off with the Chances and Nick and I were with Tomo. As we dropped down on the frame and then into the hold area, I was too busy taking photos to see that Nick was trying to clock 45m on his computer - he didn’t quite make it! [ 44.85m, grrrr - NK] Along the deck, we passed guns and then went into the bridge where all the steering equipment was still intact. Around the bow and then watching schools of fish in the blue bait balling around as we ascended away from the shot line as the other group were there.

Bye Woody!

Had to say goodbye to Woody as he was taken back to Weno between dives, so late start to…

Dive 14 – Yamagiri Maru – 6,438 ton passenger cargo ship on its port side. Caitlin sitting this one out so only three as we started out. However, Nick found he couldn’t clear his ears at 6m so had to abort the dive and he returned to the tender [NK: ears and nose were fine, but exquisite toothache in top teeth on one side - sinuses, I guess]. So I continued with Colin and Tomo. Descended and along the boat then went in through the torpedo hole and through the ship and out on the top deck. Then to the engine room where Tomo pointed out the skull of one of the engineers from the boat. It was fused to the superstructure. It was quite dark and cramped in there, which was almost too much for Colin on his first wreck penetration dive. Then out and around the stern and the props and back over the top of the boat and ascended for safety stops.

Back on board Thorfinn for lunch and quick change around for…

Dive 15 – Sankisan Maru – 4,776 ton cargo ship lying upright but in two parts. There were all four of us with Tomo on this dive. Looking in and out of holds including one with piles and piles of small glass bottles in different colours. Also looking at aircraft engine parts and lots of armaments including thousands of bullets. Up to bow then we dropped behind the group and taking lots of pictures eventually making out way up the mast for safety stops while looking at a school of fish hanging out with a Napoleon wrasse.

There was a little more time between dives to sit around and catch up on the logbook but Nick wasn’t feeling too good so decided to sit the next dive…

Dive No 16 – Hoyo Maru – 8,691-ton naval tanker. Just Colin and me with Tomo on this dive. Called the “ghost ship of Truk Lagoon” – as one of the American pilots who bombed the boat during WWII actually died while diving the ship many years later. Spooky story but no strange observations among the hard corals on the underside of the ship, which is lying mostly, upturned. We were able to see inside the engine room as it was exposed by bomb holes in the hull.

Back to shower and change for dinner of spicy soup and chicken and to hear the full ghost story from Captain Lance at the dinner table, before another quiet evening in the lounge.

Diving on the Great Barrier Reef and the Coral Sea

Infornation on the dive trip we were on for 7 days in Australia has been posted on the Spirit of Freedom website - the liveaboard with trips out of Cairns up the Great Barrier Reef and into the Coral Sea.

The first part of the trip included the Cod Hole and finished at Lizard Island. The second part of the trip took in Osprey Reef and back down the Ribbon Reefs to Cairns.

Can you spot us in any of the pictures? Theirs are slightly better than the ones we took!